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How much should you spend on the perfect engagement ring? ($50,000 is ok)

Shopping for an engagement ring feels a bit surreal. It is one thing to think about marrying your partner and thinking how lucky you are. It is a very different story to ask for permission from his or her parents and take concrete steps to prepare the perfect proposal.

I vividly remember my proposal to my now fiancée as it happened not so long ago. And, yes, we are currently planning the wedding and this is a story for another blog post.

When you start shopping for an engagement ring, it is best to do some research prior to visiting jewelry shops. There are two benefits in doing so: 1) your newly acquired knowledge will boost your confidence level and 2) the shop assistant will realize that you know the basics and is less likely to rip you off.

So how much should you spend? Well, personal circumstances vary but I paid over $50,000 and I’m fine with that.

 

Diamond buying guide – the 4Cs

The quality of a gem will drive its price. The quality of a diamond is determined by four factors: color, clarity, carat, and cut. Some would argue that this order also reflects the impact that each feature will have on the price although this is up for debate.

The features of the diamond will be summarized in a certificate. Certificates from the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) are widely recognized by the industry. GIA grading of a gem is the most popular and safest way to measure the characteristics of the gem.

What I did: When I bought my stone, I only considered diamonds that had a GIA certificate. That would be most stones so it won’t narrow down the choice you have.

 

Colour: gems range from colorless to light yellow. A colorless diamond is a chemically pure diamond similar to a pure drop of water and will command a higher premium on the market. GIA’s D-to-Z color-grading system is the industry’s most accepted grading standard. A colorless diamond will be graded D-E-F while a light yellow diamond will only receive a S-Z grading. Some of the color distinctions are almost invisible to the naked (and untrained) eye. Yet, they can make for very big price differences.

 

Clarity: the number, size, and position of inclusions and blemishes determine a diamond’s clarity. Natural diamonds are created by the exposure of carbon to tremendous pressure and heat, which can leave inclusions (internal marks) and blemishes (external marks). No diamond is perfectly pure. Nonetheless, the fewer inclusions, the higher the clarity and the higher the price. Diamonds with top clarity will be graded FL – Flawless – and IF – Internally Flawless.

 

Carat: carat weight is probably the better-known factor when it comes to picking a diamond. Carat weight is the measurement of the weight of the diamond. Purchasers will often focus on the size of the gem and ignore its other features, which are probably more important. A “carat” is defined as 200 milligrams. A 1.5ct diamond is very respectable especially if its other attributes are close to the top of the grading scale.

Diamonds in the United States tend to be bigger in terms of carat size but with lower attributes such a poor color or clarity. Those diamonds are typically “flash-for-cash” diamonds: all your money is spent on your attribute – the carat weight. As most American people can’t afford a colorless (D) and perfectly clear (FL) 3.0ct diamond, they will still purchase a 3.0ct diamond but will sacrifice colorless (K or L for instance) and clarity (SI2). The gem is big but it’s not worth as much as its size implies. In Europe, people tend to go for smaller stones with higher attributes.

 

Cut: it would be a shame to buy a very clear, colorless, diamond with a terrible cut. The quality of the cut will determinate how well the diamond can transmit light and sparkle intensely. In other words, how well can the facets of the diamond interact with light? GIA defines the cut based on three features: brightness, fire, and scintillation. In shops and online, however, you may not get that many details. Often, the cut will be described as “excellent” and “very good” (two excellent options) or as “fair” or “poor.”

 

What I did: I recommend that you have a holistic approach to choosing a diamond and its attributes. Aim for the best to get an idea of how much will this cost. Then, you play around and reduce the quality of the color or pick a smaller stone. I initially wanted something above 3.0ct. However, this meant taking a bit of a step-down with color and clarity. I settled for something just under 3.0ct with a color graded E and a clarity graded IF for over $50,000. To get a diamond for the same size with a D color and a FL clarity would have cost another $15,000 to $20,000 (assuming you could find such a diamond!).

 

“You definitely went over your budget!”

Actually, I did not. The initial budget was almost $60,000 so this is a steal!

Some people will say that paying that much money for a rock is ridiculous, especially when you are running a personal finances blog! I get it.

Let me just say two things: (1) money is here to serve you, not the other way around. This was a special moment in my life and I wanted to get it right the best I could, and (2) I saved hard and paid cash. No credit cards, no debt at all.

This purchase does not jeopardize my finances at all as I had budgeted it. When you think about it, this is almost like making an investment. Instead of buying a stock, you are buying a gem. If its attributes are good enough, it could amount to an investment. This was not my primary objective but I did keep this in mind too.

Forget the rule of spending “three times” your (gross or net?) salary. Set your own objectives. If you save long enough with discipline, you can easily spend more than three months. If you are set on retiring in three years, then think twice and try to discuss it with your partner.

Here is what I would say: it is hard to pay less than $10,000 (setting included) if you want a decent sized stone with quality features. Above $50,000, it gets difficult to let your fiancee walk around with so much money around one finger. She becomes a target and your insurance policy might have severe restrictions on where and when to wear the ring. Over $100,000, you are not buying an engagement ring: you are instead making an investment into a long-term asset, which happens to be an exceptional gem.

 

How much is a one-carat diamond engagement ring?

On James Allen, a top-notch 1.00ct D-IF Emerald Cut Diamond costs $7,680.

The price of a diamond does not proportionally increase with better attributes. In other words, a 3.00ct D-IF Emerald Cut Diamond will not cost you three ties $7,680 but north of $70,000! Moving one notch on the color or clarity scale will also result in a significant jump in price!

 

There are thresholds where the price per carat jumps: 1.00, 1.50, 2.00, 2.50 and anything above 3.00. The price per carat of a 2.50 will be significantly more expensive than a 1.50 with the exact same features because the bigger the diamond, the scarcer it is. The price increase is exponential.

 

Should I buy from a well-known brand?

There is nothing wrong to buy an engagement ring from Cartier or Tiffany. Simply be aware that you will pay a massive premium for the privilege of buying the ring from a well-known brand. If your girlfriend indicated that she wants a specific model from Tiffany, then you might have no choice but to go there.

However, if you are lucky enough to not have such a constraint, then your objective should be to maximize purchasing power and cost-effectiveness (i.e. quality-price ratio). Remove the Cartier brand and the price could easily be divided by two. I went to a Harry Winston branch in Los Angeles a couple of years ago. A three-carat emerald cut cost almost $200,000 (the state-wide California sales tax is 7.25%). On websites such as James Allen, you could get a similar diamond for $75,000 – $80,000. The Harry Winston box looks very pretty but it is certainly not worth over $100,000!

In any event, do have a look in shops to get a feeling of how big or small one carat is. You can also compare color and clarity to see if you want to make the extra investment.

 

What I did: I ordered the diamond and picked the setting on the James Allen website. I initially wanted to order on another website as they had been around for a bit longer but I found the choice and pricing of gems to be better on James Allen. The customer service was very good. I don’t expect customer service to fix everything (although they should try) but I do expect them to be responsive. The James Allen customer team always responded promptly and that brings a lot of comfort to ordering online a diamond that you have never seen. The order shipped on time and I was happy with the setting. If you do not like what you received, you can request a refund within 30 days.

 Engagement Ring
 

An important note to readers in the UK on prices and VAT

When I ordered online, I ordered from the US website for a few reasons. First, I thought that the pricing was better. For some states, James Allen will not charge sales taxes. If you ordered online and shipped to New York, you would have to pay sales taxes. If you however shipped to California, you avoid the 7.5% sales tax, which is not negligible. In any event, it ends up costing less than the 20% VAT rate in the United Kingdom. Second, I needed to have the ring shipped to California as I intended to propose there. Third, I had a lot of dollars in my US account and it made sense to use them as they were readily available for that purpose.

When ordering online from the UK site, VAT will usually already be incorporated in the final price. If you are shopping on the US website and then shipping the engagement ring to the UK, then be careful! You will be charged 20% of VAT payable to HMRC (plus any costs and handling fees to FedEx or UPS). This is obviously a significant amount so avoid any bad surprises when it comes to receiving the ring at delivery. As your circumstances are unique, read the fine print and reach out to customer service (whoever you decide to use) as policies in relation to VAT may vary.

 

Which finger do you wear an engagement ring on?

This is not exactly related to personal finances but it is definitely useful to know! If she says yes, at least make sure you know which hand or finger to put the diamond on!

In most countries, the engagement ring is apparently put on the fourth finger of the LEFT hand. This finger is called the ring finger. Apparently, in old Egypt, people thought the left hand had a vein that ran directly to the heart (vena amoris, i.e. vein of love)!

 

 

How the 2018 Budget affects your personal finances and your business

The Chancellor of the Exchequer, Philip Hammond, delivered the 2018 Budget to the House of Commons. Most measures in the 2018 Budget will enter into force on 6 April 2019, which will mark the beginning of the new fiscal year.

Or they should become effective at that time. The Chancellor indicated that a new “fiscal event” (read a new budget) may be required in early/ mid-2019 depending on the outcome of the Brexit negotiations. The message is clear: any giveaways in this Budget only stand as long as the UK economy does not crash following a breakdown of the negotiations with the European Union.

How is this Budget impacting your Personal Finances?

While some changes had already been announced (or leaked), below are the key announcements applicable to your personal finances:

Tax Thresholds and Pension Allowances

Without a doubt, this was the chancellor’s “rabbit” (i.e. for our non-UK readers, the Chancellor’s “rabbit in the hat” is usually a positive surprise announcement made at the end of the Budget speech). This year’s rabbit is about fulfilling a key pledge of the Conservative manifesto: to increase the tax-free personal allowance and applicable tax thresholds by 2020. Instead of waiting until 2020, the surprise gift arrived a year early:

  • Income tax: from 6 April 2019, the tax-free personal allowance will increase to £12,500 (currently £11,500). The basic rate limit will increase to £37,500 (currently £34,500). The higher rate threshold will increase to £50,000 (currently £46,350). These rates are expected to remain the same until April 2021. The personal allowance and basic rate limit will follow the Consumer Price Index from April 2021.

Unfortunately, taxpayers will continue to pay a 60% tax rate on their earnings above £100,000 to HMRC due to the lack of announcements in relation to the tapering of the personal allowance.

Still, the increase of the tax-free personal allowance will be a welcomed announcement. For someone earning £12,500, the increase is worth an additional £130. For someone on a salary of £50,000, it is a £860 gain, which is reduced to a £520 gain if we include recent measures on National Insurance Contributions (“NICs”).

Scotland has its own income tax due to its devolved powers. Any announcements to the starter rate and higher thresholds will be announced in the Scottish Budget in December.

  • Pensions lifetime allowance: the lifetime allowance for pension savings will increase in line with the consumer price index for the tax year 2019-20 to £1,055,000 (currently £1,030,000).

I suspect that high earners will appreciate the lack of announcements in relation to pension contributions. After the introduction of the tapering of pension contributions for higher earners, some had come to suspect that the Chancellor would extend the tapering measures to a larger proportion of taxpayers. For now, nothing changes.

  • Capital Gains Tax (CGT) annual exempt amount: for the 2019-20 tax year, the CGT annual exempt amount for individuals will increase to £12,000 (currently £11,700) and, for trustees of settlements, to £6,000 (currently £5,850).

Stamp Duty – Shared Ownership

The chancellor decided to extend stamp duty relief for first-time buyers to those purchasing shared ownership homes that are worth up to £500,000.

As a reminder, last year, the chancellor had scrapped land duty for first-time buyers purchasing homes worth up to £300,000 and reduced stamp duty on homes valued between £300,000 and £500,000 to 5% on the portion of the purchase price above £300,000.

This measure is unlikely to have any meaningful impact as it fails to address the lack of affordable available properties and does not incentivize builders to build more homes.

Stamp Duty Land Tax Surcharge for Non-Residents

The chancellor will publish in January 2019 a consultation on a Stamp Duty Land Tax (“SDLT”) surcharge of 1% for non-residents purchasing residential property in England & Wales. As stated previously, the idea is to deter opportunistic buying by foreign buyers for the benefit of first-time buyers residing in the UK. If implemented, I expect the measure to have the most impact in London.

Changes to higher SDLT rates for additional dwellings

Since 1 April 2016, individuals have been liable to higher rates of SDLT (an extra 3%) for additional properties if they buy a new home before completing the sale of their original home.  Where the original home is sold on or after 29 October 2018, a refund of the additional SDLT rate can now be claimed the later of a) 12 months from selling the original home; and b) 12 months from the filing date of the SDLT return for the new home.

Help to Buy

The government announced that the Help to Buy equity loan scheme would be extended for an additional two years from April 2021 and would end in March 2023. The chancellor did make small changes to the rules: the scheme is now only available to first-time buyers only and price caps have been set on the market value of homes based on a regional scale (1.5 times the current regional average prices and up to £600,000 in London).

Private Residence Relief – Lettings

From April 2020, and subject to a public consultation, the government intends to reform certain letting relief rules, including the principal private residence relief from capital gains (“PRR”). The intention is to more narrowly target owner-occupiers.

Currently, landlords who at some point lived in the property they rent out can gain relief from capital gains tax when they sell it. The relief is calculated in function of the period of time the landlord occupied the property, with an exemption granted for the final 18 months of ownership.

Under the expected reforms: (i) the relief will only apply to rentals where the landlord is sharing occupancy of the home with the tenant; and (ii) the “final period exemption”, which allows for a short period of non-residence in the final period of ownership, will be reduced from 18 months to 9 months.

Rent a Room Relief

The proposed changes requiring shared occupancy of the home in order to be eligible for the rent-a-room allowance seem to have been abandoned. Therefore, you can move out of your apartment and rent it during the next 6 Nations or Wimbledon tournament and you may still qualify to Rent a Room relief.

ISAs

The individual savings account (“ISA”) annual allowance for 2019-20 will remain unchanged at £20,000. The subscription limit for Junior ISAs is increased in line with the consumer prices index to £4,368.

Wedding Venues

The chancellor will ask the Law Commission to review wedding venue laws to implement a “simpler and fairer system” so that couples may have a “meaningful choice.” The commission’s task is to find ways to reduce unnecessary red tape and lower the cost of wedding venues for couples by allowing more outdoor weddings to take place. Such a change would bring England & Wales in line with rules already in effect in Scotland.

Additional Measures Of Interest

The “Millennial Railcard,” which will give one-third off the price of rail fares to people aged 26-30, is expected to be available across the network by the end of the year. 4.4 million people could potentially benefit.

The national living wage for over-25s will increase from £7.83 an hour to £8.21.

As previously announced, fuel duty will be frozen again for the ninth year in a row.

Duty on beer, cider, and spirits are frozen for one year. Wine amateurs will have no such luck as they face an increase in duty of 3.4%.

Online betting companies will see the levy increased to 21% to fund the loss of revenue as fixed off betting machines stakes are reduced to £2.

How is this Budget impacting your Business?

In addition, the chancellor also made some key announcements for businesses across the country.

Digital Service Tax

The chancellor announced a new digital services tax (“DST”). The DST will be a 2% tax on the revenues of large technology companies, including social media platforms (Facebook), search engines (Google), online marketplace (Amazon) relating to revenue derived from UK-based users, subject to a £25 million annual allowance. Under the current proposal, the DST would be applicable to technology companies with global revenues in excess of £500 million. Further details such as how to collect the tax will be disclosed at a later stage.

Entrepreneurs’ Relief

For sales made on or after 29 October 2018, individuals realizing gains on a sale of stock in a company must satisfy two new conditions to benefit from the Entrepreneurs’ Relief.

  • New Condition 1: in addition to the existing 5% ordinary share capital and voting rights requirements, the shareholder must now have a 5% interest in both the company’s distributable profits and its assets available for distribution to holders of equity on winding up.
  • New Condition 2: For sales made on or after 6 April 2019, individuals will need to have satisfied the qualifying conditions for ER for a minimum of two years instead of one year.

The stated rationale is that the Government intends to focus on supporting long-term investments by extending the minimum period.

Annual Investment Allowance

Effective from 1 January 2019, there will be a temporary (two-year) increase in the annual investment allowance to £1 million (from the current £200,000), which is intended to boost business investment. The message is that Britain is open for business.

IR35: Off-payroll working

From April 2020, similar to measures recently imposed on Government departments and public bodies that engage the services of personnel who work through their own companies, all medium and large private sector businesses will effectively be required to decide whether a person is an employee or an independent contractor. Therefore, medium and large businesses will be responsible for withholding and accounting for income tax and employees’ and employer’s NICs accordingly.

This measure increases the tax and regulatory compliance burden for businesses that regularly engage staff on a “non-employee” basis. It remains to be seen how the measures will be rolled out in practice but it could have a significant effect on companies such as Deliveroo and Uber.

Tax in the event of an insolvency

The tax and insolvency rules are to be amended so that:

  • in a liquidation, HMRC becomes a preferred creditor in respect of amounts previously collected by the insolvent business as “agent” for HMRC (effectively, VAT collected on sales and deductions such as PAYE and employees’ NICs) from employee wages). This measure will negatively affect the recoveries by creditors with floating charges and unsecured creditors as the funds remaining within the estate of the liquidated company will be reduced in order to first pay HMRC, and
  • directors and other persons involved in a tax avoidance scheme will become jointly liable for company tax liabilities in an insolvency procedure. The aim is to prevent directors to enter into insolvency proceedings with the purpose of avoiding paying taxes.

Anti-avoidance rules: distribution of profits and permanent establishments

The government will legislate to ensure that UK businesses’ taxable profits reflect actual (i.e. commercial) profits. The goal is to prevent businesses from avoiding UK tax by having their “UK” profits accrue to non-UK entities residing in low-tax jurisdictions.

Effective from 1 January 2019, the government will also ensure that foreign businesses in the UK cannot take advantage of rules which exempt certain low value “preparatory or auxiliary activities” from creating a permanent establishment in the UK. Here the government does not want businesses to split their activities between different locations and entities to avoid the creation of a permanent establishment (i.e. if all those activities were carried out by the same company, then a permanent establishment would have been created).

Gains on UK real estate

  • Non-Residents: from 6 April 2019, gains realized by non-UK residents on the sale of non-residential UK property will be subject to UK capital gains and corporation tax. Therefore, from that date, all non-UK residents will be taxable on gains for sales of interests in UK land. Moreover, non-UK residents will also be subject to tax on gains on interests in “UK property-rich entities” (for instance where shares in a company derive at least 75% of their value from UK land, whether commercial or residential).
  • Non-Resident Companies: from 6 April 2020, non-UK resident companies that have a UK real estate business (or have other types of UK property income) will now be charged corporation tax instead of income tax (as it was the case). This means that non-UK companies will become to UK interest restriction and loss restriction rules regarding their UK rental income.

Offshore receipts from intangible property

Effective 6 April 2019, income from intangible property located in low-tax jurisdictions will be subject to UK income tax to the extent that such income is attributable to the sale of goods or services in the UK and arises from the ownership of the relevant intangible property.

The measure is aimed at non-UK entities that are based in jurisdictions with whom the UK does not have a full tax treaty. Specific anti-avoidance and anti-forestalling rules will apply to arrangements entered into on or after 29 October 2018.

Restrictions on carry-forward losses

From 1 April 2020, the use of carry-forward capital losses is to be restricted. The aim is to ensure that no more than 50% of a company’s income and gains in any year can be offset by carry-forward losses.  This new measure will align the rules on carry-forward capital losses with the ones already in existence for carry-forward income losses.

Special rate writing down allowance

The rate of the writing down allowance on special rate expenditure on plant and machinery will reduce from 8% to 6%, effective from April 2019. Special rate expenditure typically includes expenditure on long-life assets, thermal insulation, and integral features. Businesses will continue to receive full tax relief but over an extended timeframe.

Capital allowances for structures and buildings

The chancellor announced a new “Structures and Building Allowance” for new non-residential structures and buildings. Tax relief is expected to be available for eligible construction costs incurred on or after 29 October 2018 at an annual rate of 2% on a straight-line basis.

 

 

Student loans are a scary ticking time bomb

Last weekend was my law school reunion weekend in Washington, DC. It’s incredible to see how much people have achieved in five years. It is also crazy to see how very little has changed. Some left the legal profession and other stayed, relationships strengthened or fell apart, and overall people look quite good.

 

We shared many fond memories. Looking back, I had the time of my life. If there’s one thing I also remember, it’s how expensive tuition and living in the capital were for someone who had gone to school in Europe. Some of my friends racked several hundred thousands of debt (!) and to this day are still working through their repayment plan.

 

Student loans are America’s next housing crisis. The worst is it is the generation who graduated right after the financial crisis who may be the one to foot the bill again if student loans default picks up.

 

The amount of student loans outstanding is staggering

Bloomberg reported that student loans are the only consumer debt segment that has continually grown since the recession. Over the last 11 years, student loans have surged by almost 157%. Auto loan debt on the other hand “only” increased by 52%.

 

 

It is estimated that there is over $1.5 trillion worth of outstanding student loans. This is the second largest type of household debt after mortgages. Unless wages start to aggressively pick up, I predict that student loans will become the first type of household debt as the new generation is locked out of the housing market due to longer repayment plans and increased house prices. On the other hand, the older generation who has already purchased property will simply pay down mortgages. Only a minority may take a second mortgage to buy further properties.

 

Student loans are the new norm

 

To top worldwide university rankings, universities have raced to improve campuses and hire the best professors to the faculty bench. With no funding from the government, those investments were bankrolled by generous benefactors but also students. Paying over $50,000 a year for a private school education became the norm. That was the price to pay to ensure a successful career.

 

The universities who could not make the required investments were deemed less successful and therefore had a harder time attracting the best students. With less successful graduates and a more humble alumni network, those schools either fell behind the competition or tried to charge even more to students.

 

Unless parents have saved for 18 plus years, students have no choice but to take out massive loans. Sure, a few will succeed in community colleges while others will receive grants. But overall, save for special circumstances, you are looking at a very expensive bill for college and graduate school. And I’m not even counting medical school, which is at another level.

 

It is not like students have slacking either. Students are increasingly spending more time working between studies instead of actually studying. According to Bloomberg, 85% of students have paid jobs while enrolled in a degree.

 

The math really is bad

 

$1.5 trillion means absolutely nothing to me. It is a number that I cannot comprehend. This might be the case for you too. Let’s have a look at some numbers.

 

Calculating the interest rate on federal student loans can be complex and is beyond the scope of this article. A direct unsubsidized loan for a graduate or professional has a 6.6% interest rate based on the Federal Student Aid page. For simplicity, let’s round this down to 6%.

 

The cost of attendance of Georgetown Law for the current academic year is $62,244 a year for a full-time JD student. That’s $186,732 because the degree lasts three years.

 

Let’s assume that your parents were generous. They paid for college and you don’t have any outstanding student loans. Let’s also assume that you are hard-working and that you are able to pay for food, rent, and extra-curricular activities by yourself or with a bit of help from your parents.

 

The goal is to pay student loans within 5 years, i.e. before your first reunion. After all, you might get married and you will want to save for a house in not so long.

 

I know that’s a lot of assumptions.

 

Here is the breakdown of your monthly repayment schedule.

 

And here are the results:

Monthly payments amount to $3,610.05. That is a staggering amount. Just to put this into perspective, I strongly believe that only law graduates in Biglaw (i.e. working for big law firms paying top dollars in exchange for your life and sanity) would be able to service such a high amount. A first-year associate working in a top NY law firm will make $190,000. That’s a great amount when you just graduated from law school. But half of that will go towards federal and especially state taxes. Then you need to rent a place in one of the most expensive cities in the world. And of course, everybody needs to go out from time to time. After servicing the monthly payment of $3,610.05, there won’t be much left to save.

I know that some people will argue that 5 years is too short. That assumption is not realistic and too aggressive some might say. Think again. You should not be paying servicing debt with such a high-interest rate. You may be able to refinance but that won’t drastically change things. Banks will be reluctant to lend you significant amounts for a mortgage if you still have $100,000 to pay to the government for debt that cannot be discharged in bankruptcy.

 

Of the amounts repaid, almost 14% will account for interest. Imagine what you could do with $30,000!

As with most loans, including mortgages, students will mostly repay interest at first and only the principal then.

 

The student loans crisis is likely to get worse

Student loans have the highest 90-day delinquency rate of all types of household debt. This means that people with student loans are more likely to default on the debt compared to others with credit card debt or mortgages. According to Bloomberg Global Data, more than 1 in 10 borrowers is at least 90 days delinquent compared to mortgages and car loans that respectively have a delinquency rate of 1.1% and 4%. Mortgage and car loans delinquency peaked during the housing crisis and started to decrease in 2010. On the other hand, student loan delinquency rates have remained very close to the all-time highs reached in 2012.

As the Fed continues to raise the base rate, the options to refinance student loans at a cheaper rate are dwindling rapidly. The U.S. Government is also unlikely to reduce rates anytime sooner given how much money this brings to the coffers. Universities are still locked in a global race against one another and are therefore unlikely to cut tuition fees and sacrifice a key source of funding.

Student loans are getting more expensive but this does not mean that students equally face increased risks of defaulting. Some student classes are more vulnerable than others:

  • For-profit colleges: in the US, some schools simply exist to make money. Often, the education is below par but this does not prevent those institutions from charging exorbitant tuition fees. Students graduate from a school that has at best an average reputation and cannot find jobs with salaries sufficiently high enough to service the debt.
  • People of color: people of color tend to be more at disadvantage in the United States because of a poorer background and years of prejudice against them. Colleges have put affirmative action admission procedures to ensure that everybody has a fair chance of getting admitted. However, this does not always translate into scholarships and financial aid.
  • Drop-outs: people who started paying for a very expensive degree and don’t even graduate are also likely to default. If you don’t graduate, employers cannot hire as you don’t have the requisite qualifications. Yet, you still have to repay those student loans. The exceptions are drop-outs who launch very successful companies such as Mark Zuckerberg or Bill Gates.
  • Graduates with limited job opportunities: you may be the brightest in your field but there must be some jobs available. If you studied speech writing and literature to become a speechwriter at the White House, then you are going to have a rough time financially because only have 5 to 10 people will have that job every four years. On the other hand, if you studied computer science, you could probably get a job prior to graduation. This world is evolving quickly and some job opportunities just disappear as they are no longer relevant.

 

Students are smart and know that defaulting on such a large amount that early on in life will have long-standing implications. Their credit score will drop and they will not be to borrow and use leverage to buy a property. In the United States, it is almost impossible to discharge student loans so they will always get chased by some debt collectors. It is incredibly hard to recover financially. Therefore, I don’t think that people who default on their student loans do it just for the fun of it. They have encountered tremendous hardship and decided to give up fully knowing the dire consequences of doing so.

As Jerome Powell, the chair of the Federal Reserve said:

You do stand to see longer-term negative effects on people who can’t pay off their student loans. It hurts their credit rating; it impacts the entire half of their economic life

 

 

The only way to limit any downside is to take calculated risks. Don’t take on massive loans if you don’t get into a decent school. Be mindful that some jobs are harder to get or pay less. Be realistic about your prospects. Yes, everybody is getting an education and it is harder to have a successful career without one. Yet, remember that an education is supposed to be an asset, not a liability. And people in the UK, including Cabinet members, should be mindful that UK students are following their US counterparts a lot quicker than everybody thinks by taking on more debt.

How to get your deposit back

A few months ago, I moved out of my old apartment. Moving is stressful for everyone. Packing, finding a new place, moving boxes, unpacking, sorting and decorating are all necessary steps. Retrieving your deposit is, however, one of the most important steps. Unfortunately, what should be a simple task too often turns out to be Mission Impossible.

Retrieving my deposit was not easy. The landlord came up with some creative ideas to fix a few things in the apartment at my expense. Needless to say that the real estate agency was completely complicit in an attempt to maintain a good relationship (and business) with the landlord. Not all landlords are bad. I just had a bad experience and I acknowledge that. Having said that, it is important to know how to act in those unfortunate situations.

Let’s also be fair: if you caused damage to the property beyond simple wear and tear, then you should compensate the landlord. The idea is not to cheat the landlord or game the system. For all other cases, you should get your deposit back.

If the landlord is not being fair, then you need to fight back and build your case. After all, the deposit is yours and it’s hard earned cash. Do not leave money on the table!

  1. Gather the key documentation

Prior to moving out, make sure that you have gathered any document that you might require to build a case. Those include at a minimum:

  • The lease agreement, including all schedules;
  • The inventory check made at the beginning of the tenancy;
  • Any supplemental forms provided by the landlord or the agency such as prescribed information leaflets, deposit protection certificate etc.

At the time of your exit, there will be a new inventory check made. This is especially important as the landlord will use this inventory check to show that you have caused damages. Ideally, you should be present when the inventory is made. This will limit the chances of having an unscrupulous clerk exaggerating defects for the benefit of the landlord.

Tip: to show that you mean business, take pictures of the condition of the apartment while the clerk is conducting the inventory check. It is still your apartment at that time and you are entitled to gather proof. The clerk will know that you have pictures to counter any inconsistencies in his report.

Once you have moved out, the clerk will draft the report within a week or so. You should receive a copy of that inventory report. If the landlord or agency do not volunteer to send you a copy of the report, chase them.

 

What happened to me: I had the lease agreement but I had never received an electronic copy of the inventory check. When I realized this, I immediately emailed the agency, which was after I moved out. They provided me with the relevant documents. Now, I safely keep those stored in a file should I ever need them. I was lucky that the documents were provided by the agency: had they refused, I could not have challenged certain deductions.

 

  1. Be fair and recognize if you damaged the property

An important step to save time and money is to assess the situation. When the inventory check is conducted, you will know if you left the property in good conditions. It is important to differentiate two types of damages:

  • Wear and tear: wear and tear is damage caused by the repeated usage of the property. In other words, this is damage that naturally occurs as a result of the usage and aging of the property. For instance, it is typical to have more wear and tear if a family of four lives in the apartment compared to a single occupant. With kids, those white walls stand less of a chance to stay immaculate! The landlord cannot make any deductions to your deposit to fix wear and tear issues.
  • Other types of damages: if you decided to hang pictures and made holes in all the walls, then you will need to fix this. If you don’t do it, then the landlord will at your expense. The list could go on forever.

Being realistic and honest about how you left the property is a much more efficient way to deal with the situation. The landlord may not give you back all your deposit but that’s only fair as you damaged the property. If you are at fault (and did not fix the issue prior to the inventory check), try to be upfront and reach an amicable settlement. It will still cost you money but saving time and anxiety is invaluable.

Of course, if you genuinely believe that you left the property in stellar conditions with only minimal wear and tear, you should get your deposit back.

 

What happened to me: I expected deductions regarding certain unsettled utility bills (one remained outstanding at it had just been issued while the other one would only be available at the end of the quarter). As a single occupant, I knew that the apartment was left in excellent conditions. I had also paid for professional cleaners and replaced all light bulbs. I was therefore shocked to see many deductions for items (damaged chair, chipped wall, stains in the bathroom near the sink).

 

  1. Email the landlord or agency to claim your deposit

Once you have handed over the keys and concluded the inventory check, the next step is to claim back your deposit.

The easiest way is to send an email to the landlord or agency. In the email, mention that you have given back the keys, that the inventory check has been concluded and that you would like your deposit back. Request additional information on how and when they intend to transfer the monies to you.

Typically, the email will either be ignored until the inventory check has been received or you will receive a response stating that nothing can be done while the landlord has not signed off on the inventory check.

This is fine. The purpose of the email is to ensure that the clock starts ticking. The email – your request to retrieve your deposit – will start a 10-day period during which the landlord must respond to your request. Making such a request also happens to be a requirement by major deposit schemes (and you will need proof that you made such a request). For example, on My Deposits, the tenant must ask for the deposit back and the landlord/agent has 10 days to respond before the tenant can raise a dispute with the scheme administrator. Without this, the tenant cannot initiate a claim.

Claim early so that this period starts running. By doing so, you will be in a position to raise a dispute straight away instead of waiting for a new 10-day period to lapse.

 

What happened to me: I made the mistake of waiting around and not immediately claiming my deposit. I had simply assumed that the landlord or agency would be proactive, which was a mistake. It took them over two weeks to come up with the first batch of proposed deductions! Eventually, I formally requested the deposit back. The delay was not detrimental to me as I was in no rush and did not need the money. It was however poor planning and I will be much quicker next time.

 

  1. Check the proposed deductions and negotiate with the landlord

There are two possibilities at this stage. The first one is the landlord accepts the inventory check and surrenders the deposit in full (or with minor deductions, which you agree with). The second possibility is the landlord starts to make unwarranted deductions, which significantly reduces your chances to recover the deposit.

The landlord or agency will send you a copy of the proposed deductions. The most efficient way to deal with those is to go over each proposed deduction line by line. If you have a solid reason to challenge the deduction, then list it next to that line-item. Repeat the process until you are done.

There are a couple of ways to challenge deductions:

  • Check the inventory check when you entered the premises: if the damage already existed when you moved in, you should not have to pay for it;
  • Check the inventory check when you moved out: there may be inconsistencies or gaps in the report. Pull up the pictures you took and determine how accurate the report is. If there is a mistake in the report, then the deduction is unwarranted;
  • Claim wear and tear: some landlords will want to repaint a room claiming you damaged the painting in one corner of the room. Unless there is a hole in the wall, it probably is simple wear and tear. In theory, it will be up to the landlord to demonstrate that this is not the case. In practice, this can be difficult, the outcome will depend on the facts, and the evidence presented.
  • Say no: if you disagree but don’t have supportive evidence, you can always say no. This will block the process and prevent the landlord from moving forward. The landlord has the advantage of holding the deposit but eventually, landlords are not in the business to litigate. They will want to close the case and move on to the next tenant who might even pay more rent.

Prescribed Information: under the Housing Act 2004, when a landlord, or their agent, protects a tenant’s deposit with an approved Tenancy Deposit Protection Scheme, they are required to provide to the tenant specific information regarding the protection of the deposit, known as the Prescribed Information. Failure to do so can result in penalties amounting three times the deposit amount. If you have not been provided the Prescribed Information, this could be a good argument to incentivize the landlord to settle the dispute.

Negotiate with the landlord to reach an acceptable settlement. If this does not work, then litigation is the next (and final) step.

 

What happened to me: I went through every single deduction and was able to prove that the chipped wall was already mentioned in the original inventory check. I pushed back on the stains in the bathroom stating that this was standard wear and tear and knowing that the landlord would have difficulties proving otherwise. As for the scratch on the chair, the landlord wanted to charge me over £90 to fix it! I first refused and then offered half of the amount to settle the claim.

 

  1. Take legal action

There are two ways to litigate: either litigate through the adjudication process provided by the deposit protection schemes or sue the landlord in small claims court (for claims below £10,000).

Raising a dispute through the deposit protection scheme is quite simple and works like a private court case. Instead of a judge, you will have impartial adjudicators who will review the evidence submitted by you and the landlord. To be effective, both the tenant and the landlord must agree to use this alternative dispute resolution mechanism. If either the tenant or the landlord refuses to be a party, you cannot use the service and the only option left is legal action in court. If both parties accept to participate in this adjudication process, the adjudicator’s decision is final with no right of appeal. It essentially is an alternative to the use of courts. The hope is to settle claims quickly and reduce the workload of the courts.

If everything fails, then you must resort to legal action. You will need to send a letter before action to the landlord’s home address as a last warning. If the landlord refuses to engage or discuss the deductions any further, then it is time to file the claim form and pay the initial court fees.

If you are looking for letter templates, have a look at the Shelter’s website.

What happened to me: the landlord did not accept my arguments very easily. She claimed that the chipped wall was not properly documented in the inventory check and that there should have been a picture (the inventory check was perfectly clear). She also resisted the wear and tear argument and insisted on the full amount for the chair. In the end, I issued a letter before action to her home address. As a lawyer, I was quite comfortable going to court and was therefore eager to avoid the dispute resolution mechanism provided by the scheme. She then settled, accepted my offer on the chair and gave me the deposit back (minus deductions for the utility bills). This process took over three months.

 

Should I rebalance my portfolio when the stock market is crashing?

For the first time in months, US equities almost went into full correction mode. While valuations are still very high, many portfolios will have felt the pain. That’s because most portfolios will follow a common asset allocation strategy split between equities and bonds. Equities are viewed as the riskier assets but also the more rewarding ones. Bonds, on the other hand, are meant to be safe assets with bond prices rising when people are looking for safety. This is a bit of a generalization but the principle stands.

Those portfolios suffered from a double whammy in the past two weeks: first, we had falling bond prices due to various macro circumstances such as a higher U.S. deficit and a tightening of the Fed policy resulted in higher bond yields. This scared equity investors, which led to a widespread decline in equity valuation. Money is getting more expensive to borrow, which means that companies used to cheap money will see reduced profits unless they can offset higher financing costs with higher revenue and profits. The US economy is already booming and US businesses are benefitting from the Trump tax cuts so it’s hard to see how much profit growth is left for grab.

 

It’s tempting to have the urge to do something and make the situation better. Nobody likes to see the value of one’s portfolio plummet by 5% or even 10% in a week. Our instincts tell us that we must act, at least to mitigate losses.

Quite the start for the month of October

 

Like most things in life, it is a matter of what you intend to do and when you intend to do it. While I believe that most people should do nothing and avoid emotional moves, there are still a few situations where it is fine to rebalance your portfolio or take corrective measures.

 

When is it acceptable to review the asset allocation of your portfolio during a stock crash?

 

Extreme volatility in your portfolio

If your portfolio is made up of options or derivatives, then it is time to at least review the positions. There is nothing wrong in speculating to capture abrupt price movements like the ones seen this week to make a profit. If implemented properly, the results will dwarf what you could have made with shares alone. The least you could do however is to understand how the instruments that you are buying and selling are priced. For example, options have four primary drivers: current stock price (of the stock on which the option is based), intrinsic value (the difference between the strike price and the stock price), time (or theta) and implied volatility (IV).

It is important to understand how volatility works. If the market expects a “hot” stock such as Tesla or Tilray to move drastically until expiration, this increased volatility will have to be priced and will also impact the time value of the option. An option’s time value increases when there is strong volatility due to the uncertainty of the stock price until expiration. In other words, a stock price that tends to move significantly is harder to predict.

Implied volatility is determined by the current price of an option contract on a particular stock. Think of it of the unknown factor caused by market participants guessing the final stock price. When the uncertainty related to a stock movement increases, the option price is traded higher because IV has increased. However, when there is less uncertainty in determining the price of a stock, IV will decrease.

 

As the moves of this week were very sudden, more people have been trying to reassess the outlook of stocks (ability to rebound, anticipated earnings, macro conditions etc). Overall, the price of options has increased due to higher IV. In short, more people are guessing in different directions with multiple outlooks. As there is no consensus on the price of a stock, the implied volatility increases, which causes the price of the option to increase.

 

If the IV has significantly increased on the price of the options you hold, it is time to evaluate your positions. If you had call options, those are likely to have lost significant value. If you had put options, then well done (assuming you bought them recently). If you are thinking of buying call options to capture the technical rebound, be mindful that you are not the only one thinking of this play. Even if you are right, you will need a higher price movement than usual in the right direction because the IV will have increased (and everybody is buying options at the same time to benefit from the same strategy). Look at how the VIX index – commonly referred to as the index of fear – has increased recently. This index is literally based on the price of options.

 

This why certain options can decrease a value after earnings, even if the earnings positively impacted the underlying stock price. A lot of people would have predicted the right price movement, overinflating the price of the option, and then everybody would sell at the same time a few days later.

 

Quarterly or monthly review of your asset allocation

It is acceptable to review your asset allocation and make changes to your portfolio if you had already intended to do so. If this review was not prompted by plummeting stock indices, then you are fine as you are only following your pre-established strategy. Similar to not making emotional moves during a period of high volatility, you should stick to your old habits and continue reviewing your portfolio as usual.

 

It turns out that this bit of a volatility started early October. Early October also happens to mark the beginning of the last quarter of the year, and the end of the third one. If you are in the habit of reviewing investments every quarter, or even every month, then it would have made sense for you to review the performance of your portfolio at that time. If you decide to make a few tweaks to readjust the risk profile of your stock allocation, then this is fine. The point is that you are not reacting to an event or series of events. You are simply checking in, as you would have with or without volatility.

 

Speculate and greed

“Greed, for a lack of a better word, is good” said Gordon Gekko.

 

If stocks across all industries are down 10%, then it is natural to hunt for bargains. Some of those stocks may have been rightfully re-priced but it is also likely that some stocks are just following the trend without any material changes to fundamentals. For those stocks, it might make sense to buy them at a discount. If the fundamentals are right, there is a limited risk and a significant upside.

The strategy is risky as it amounts to timing the bottom of the dip. If the dip turns into a recession, then it will take months or years to recover. Catching a falling knife requires a bit of luck and when markets start panicking, there is no way to tell when the end is in sight. Ideally, you will only do this in your Yolo account. If you are using your main portfolio or worse, your pension pot, then make sure that you are invested for the very long term.

 

It is not a terrible idea to make a one-off pension contribution to your pension pot if you still have not maxed out your annual allowance (or you believe that you won’t have maxed out your allowance by the beginning of the next fiscal year). Again, you are trying to time the dip but as you are investing for the very long term, the risk of error is less relevant. Also, the one-off contribution will be topped up by at least 20% and can even result in additional tax relief for higher-rate and additional-rate taxpayers.

 

 

 

 

 

Why holding cash is not necessarily a stupid idea

Asset allocation refers to a strategy that aims at creating diversification within a portfolio in order to balance risks. By dividing assets across certain categories such as stocks, real estate or bonds, you are reducing your risk exposure to a single asset. Each asset has a different level of risk and returns, which means that one asset can hedge the movement of an asset.

Portfolio rebalancing is essentially a reshuffle of the asset allocation. For example, stocks performed very well while gold had a disappointing run. Based on your outlook, you could either cut your losses in gold and pour more money into stocks. Alternatively, you could also take the profits from your stocks and double-down on gold.

When you decide to rebalance your portfolio, you also need to think of the remaining time you have left in the market. If you are young and stick to shares, you can ride the stock market for a very long time without significant consequences. If you are approaching retirement, the traditional advice is to dial back your exposure to equities for the benefit of bonds and government-backed debt as they are deemed to be safer. The outlook overtime shifts from capital growth to capital preservation.

Cash is also an asset and will be featured in your asset allocation. From discussions with asset managers, investment bankers, colleagues, and even friends, most people will tell you that holding cash is a mistake. In the long term, I tend to agree. Unless your savings account has a very high interest rate, your cash will slowly lose its value because of inflation.

As a result, cash usually represents less than 10% of someone’s portfolios. The rest is a mixture of equity and bonds. More sophisticated investors – or people who think that they are smarter – will dabble with options and futures.

 

Yet, currently, less than 5% of my net worth is currently invested or at risk. The rest is in cash. Clearly, I can’t pretend that I don’t understand the economics. Also, I don’t detest capitalism, the stock market, and financial institutions. After all, more than anyone, I understand leverage and debt due to my professional background. So why am I taking the risk of holding so much cash?

 

Holding Cash May Only Be a Temporary Strategy to Invest Significantly More Later

People who hold a lot of cash generally don’t try to time the market. They simply hold cash because they have a significant expenditure or investment coming up. They know it’s coming and, quite rightfully, they make sure to be prepared. In a way, there are holding cash despite them and their best intentions.

The most common reason to hold cash is to build a down payment for a property. First-time buyers in London are completely priced out of the market and the down payment is, for many, unaffordable. Based on recent data from the ONS, London first-time buyers can expect to spend 13 times their salary to purchase a home. Kensington and Chelsea was the least affordable area in 2017, with median house prices being 40.7 times median workplace-based annual earnings.

In short, you need a lot of cash laying around to even come up with a down payment. Real estate is a well-known asset class and nobody will question the logic of purchasing a property. To get there, you might need to park cash and that is fine.

 

Holding Cash May Be the Only Option to Open Specific Savings Accounts

If you want to hedge currency risks with your savings, then you have little choice but to hold cash. You could hold U.S. Treasury bills or other government debt (i.e. which are cash equivalents) denominated in the currency of your choice, but you would still be subject to the fluctuations of bond prices unless you decided to hold until maturity. Even if you held until maturity, inflation would erode your returns in the same way as it would for a savings account. In this scenario, holding cash is the simplest way to set up your currency hedge. It is true that you could also open an account with a broker and start trading currencies. My concern is that the brokerage fees and the lack of interest (or de minimis interest) would end up being too costly in terms of fees and time. For this reason, it is probably best to stick to boring savings accounts.

 

In addition to holding cash in different currencies, there are certain accounts that are only available in cash. One example is the Help to Buy ISA. Based on a limited review of available offers, there is no stock and shares option for the Help to Buy ISA. As a reminder, the Help to Buy ISA is a tax-free saving account for the down payment of your first home. You save money into the account and the Government will top up your savings by 25%. As an example, for every £200 you save, the Government will give you a bonus of £50. The government’s bonus is capped at £3,000. Due to the tax incentives, this account is extremely popular. Having your savings in cash because that’s the only way to contribute to your Help to Buy ISA is completely acceptable.

 

Holding Cash To Have Some Peace of Mind

If I offered £2,000,000 in cash, I would expect you to take it. If I offered you £2,200,000 in the form of a £3,000,000 house with a mortgage of £800,000, I believe that most people would choose the cash over the house. Finally, I believe that most people would still choose the cash over the house even if they did rent their primary residence. Although I am offering you 10% more money with the house option (and I don’t count money saved on rent), I am ready to bet that you would take the cash offer. I probably should do a survey to test that theory! Feel free to disagree with me in the comment section.

If you are arguing that the amounts are so large that people in those situations probably already make good money to afford such a mortgage, you are missing the point. Divide the numbers by five if it makes it more realistic.

 

The point is that most people will prefer cash because servicing £800,000 over for another 5 to 10 years is incredibly stressful. You need a continuous source of income and that income cannot fall below a certain level or you risk forfeiting an asset in which you have already poured a lot of money. This assumes that you have a fixed-rate mortgage. If not, you will have to refinance your mortgage without knowing what future market conditions will be like. With yields creeping back up across the United States and other major economies.

 

Even if you don’t have assets beyond the £2,000,000 in cash in your bank account, it is a great feeling to know that whatever the emergency, you will be in a strong position to deal with it. There is no reason to fear a costly medical bill or even the loss of employment. While some stress can be a positive catalyst to overcome some of the challenges thrown at you, I believe that stress caused by money tends to take a toll on someone’s health. Therefore, taking the cash to avoid that stress at all costs is sensible.

 

Holding Cash to Make Bank in a Downturn

If you already own your main home and are hoarding large sums in cash, there is a good chance that your outlook on the stock market or the world economy is reasonably bleak. As of this post, the Nasdaq is down 4%. Congratulations.

 

Warren Buffet famously said that “only when the tide goes out do you discover who’s been swimming naked.” In other words, one might appear to be asset rich when the economy is booming but if that person cannot service that debt in a downturn, then it wasn’t really that person’s money but the bank’s. When a recession hits the economy, it won’t take long to see the people who were over-leveraged and the rest who is sitting on cash and fully paid assets.

 

Unless inflation spirals out of control, sitting on cash during a recession feels great because the same pot of money can buy a lot more assets without doing any work. Therefore, if your net worth is mostly cash, you do not even have to short the market to increase your purchasing power. You won’t have made money until you act, but theoretically speaking, you are richer than you used to be in terms of purchasing power.

 

A stable financial position and an increased theoretical purchasing power are already nice things to have in a recession but they are not the real prizes.

 

The most important benefit of holding cash in a recession is that people are willing to pay a lot of money for your cash. Of course, they won’t give you cash for cash as this would make no sense. Instead, they will take your cash and give you shares, stock options or other instruments so that you can recoup your investment.

 

Don’t believe me? Check out that deal made by Warren Buffett and the venerable investment bank Goldman Sachs in 2008, at the height of the financial crisis.

Buffett gave $5 billion in late September 2008 to Goldman Sachs. In exchange, Goldman agreed to hand over (i) $5 billion in preferred shares and (ii) warrants that allowed Warrant Buffett to purchase an additional $5 billion shares at a price of $115. At the time, the shares were still trading at $125 so they were in the money on day 1. Presumably, Buffett expected things to get worse and wanted to have a cushion (as it turned out, he was right, the stock price of Goldman continued to tank). It also doesn’t stop here.

Goldman Sachs also agreed to pay Berkshire – Buffett’s holding company – a yearly 10% dividend, with the option of buying back the stock at any time for 10% more than what Berkshire had paid. Goldman did so for $5.5 billion in April 2011. The estimated dividend over the period is $1.3 billion. So $1.1 billion of dividends and $500 million of capital gains, Buffett made a return of $1.8 billion on the preferred shares. Then comes the warrants.

In 2013, the warrants were exercised at approximately $147. If you are interested, you will see that there were wild swings in the stock price of Goldman and the warrants were under water for while. Warren Buffett netted about $1.4 billion. Even better, according to news reports at the time, he did not have to front the $5 billion to Goldman to purchase the 43.5 million shares it had a right to purchase at $115. Goldman gave Warrant Buffett the difference in stock.

 

In the end, Warrant Buffett walked with $3.2 billion profit, which amounts to a return of 64% in only four and half years. Not bad.

 

This example illustrates that desperate people or companies will pay you a lot of money if they really need short-term liquidity. Of course, not everybody is Warren Buffet. Part of the reason why Goldman paid so dearly was to obtain the Buffet “stamp of approval”, which is always a public relations win. And that’s what Goldman needed most in the midst of the financial crisis.

 

However, if you do your due diligence correctly, there will be people or entities that are profitable in normal conditions but that require additional liquidity when under stress. There is no need to come up with an elaborate term sheet. Scoop up some cheap shares and wait. Avoid options at all costs as markets are likely to be distorted and timing the recovery is as risky as timing the recession.